A few years ago, I was invited to attend a huge food show in California. There were hundreds of vendors with samples! It was sheer Abby Heaven. The vendor I remember the most was sampling a Moroccan Tagine sauce, made with olives and lemons. I was immediately in love. The flavor was deliciously tangy, yet deeply complex. There was something there I couldn’t place, and to this day I still haven’t been able to re-create that magnificent sauce. However, I think I now know why: Preserved lemons. These were something I have always heard of, but hadn’t typically used myself in cooking. I am now convinced this was the magical flavor that is almost a distant memory to me now…
Some describe the flavor of preserved lemons as having a “citrus umami” taste. Many swear by its versatility and ability to pack a lemon “punch” to any dish. A friend of mine recently turned me on to the idea of making a batch myself, and that’s when I made the connection to my long-lost Moroccan Tagine Love Sauce.
Preserved lemons are incredibly simple to make. All you do is quarter-slice a lemon, and pack it with salt in a jar for about 30 days. The resulting fermented lemons contribute a deep, floral lemony flavor to dishes. Many people will rinse the lemon wedges of excess salt before slicing or mincing the rind for a deli salad, pasta dish, or stir-fry. The pulp is a bit mushier, but is great for stewed dishes and sauces.
One recipe I found takes it one step further, and purees the final product — without rinsing first — into a paste. From there, you can easily add it into vinaigrettes, dips, or sauces; slather it on chicken or salmon before roasting; add into a bloody mary or other cocktail; or simply toss with roasted vegetables or potatoes. One tip: you may need to adjust the final flavor of the paste by adding water, or maybe don’t add all the brine to begin with. All batches will vary a little with their salt levels.
Here is the batch I started with my mother last week. We had quite a few lemons to deal with (but we didn’t let that get us down, haha) so the recipe listed below is scaled down from what we did in the photos:
Here’s what you’ll need:
- 3-5 Lemons*, scrubbed well
- Kosher salt
- Peppercorns and/or bay leaves, optional
- Canning jars with tight-fitting lids
- Slice the stem end off each lemon. Then, quarter the lemons from the top to within 1/2 inch of the intact end, (almost cutting them into quarters but leaving them attached at one end).
- Rub/pack kosher salt all over the cut surfaces. Press into the bottom of the jar, squeezing as much juice as you can without mangling the lemon slices.
- Cover the first layer of lemons with kosher salt. Fit all the cut lemons in, breaking them apart if necessary. Sprinkle salt on each layer.
- Press the lemons down to release their juices. Add to the jar the 4-5 peppercorns and 2-3 bay leaves, if using. Allow the lemons to rest/juice out for about 15 minutes before pressing them one last time, making sure there is enough juice to cover the top of the slices. *You may need to squeeze additional lemons for this step.
- Close the jar and let ripen at cool room temperature, gently shaking the jar every day for 3 to 4 weeks, or until the rinds are tender to the bite. Then store it in the refrigerator for several months, or up to a year.
I am so excited to see how this batch turns out, and to see if I can once again enjoy my long-lost tagine sauce with olives and lemons. They will be done at the end of the month, and I will be sure to keep you updated!